There’s no piece of clothing that can make a man look absolutely dashing quite like a well fitted suit! That is why having a suit tailor-made is the best option. However, with getting suits tailored becoming a costly affair, more and more men are resorting to finding readymade suits in a fit that works best with their body type. Our suggestion – make friends with a good tailor, pick a readymade suit in a size and fit that’s closest to yours, take it to him along with this guide, and ask for little tweaks that will make a whole lot of difference in the suit’s look and feel.
Whether you are having a suit custom-made, or are browsing the shops, here are all the details you will need to pay attention to in order to find or create the fitted suit of your dreams…
The Shoulder
When picking up a readymade suit, focus on its shoulder fit. Remember to pick up a piece that is perfectly fitted on your shoulders, as this cannot be altered by a tailor. Use your shoulder as a guide when trying on a suit; the seam where the sleeve meets the jacket, should be at the exact point where your arm meets your shoulder blade.
This means that when you are standing upright with your hands loosely at your sides, the arms of the jacket should sit smoothly around your upper arms. If the arm dimples sharply just under the shoulder blade and creases, the jacket is too small. If it’s too loose, the arms will dangle off your shoulder and the sleeves will ripple.
Buttoning Up
It’s common knowledge that only the top button of the suit jacket should be fastened when one is standing; when sitting, all need to be unbuttoned. So, when picking a suit, buttoning up can tell you if the jacket fits right. Again, when standing upright, the lapels should overlap smoothly and drape evenly over the abdomen. There should be no pulling at the button closure – watch out for the dreaded ‘X’ formation at this spot – this would mean that it’s a tad bit small. On the flip side, if the jacket is too loose, when buttoned, the lapels will lift up and protrude off of the chest.
Sleeve Length
About a half inch of the shirt cuff should peep under the jacket sleeve. It’s not necessary to be a stickler to this rule, but in general, neither should the sleeve cover the entire cuff, nor should it rise above the cuff entirely.
Jacket Length
Having a jacket that is too long or too short will create a disproportionate look. The right length of a jacket is anywhere between where one’s rear curves outward and just above the point where it begins to curve inward. Another trick to determine the right length is to set your hands straight down your sides – if the jacket’s bodice reaches the half-way point of your palm, you’re good to go!
Trouser Fit
Like all formal trousers, the seat of the suit’s trousers should be perfectly fitted. The back of the trousers should be draped lightly over one’s rear, without any obvious tugging or pulling, resulting in crumpling. If the trousers are a size too big, they will sulk loosely down the thighs, giving a frumpy appearance.
Trouser Break
The length of the trousers has to be just right to create that put-together, debonair charm. The subtle dimple caused where the cuff of the trousers is restricted from flowing to its whole length by the shoe is called the ‘break’. An ideal fit would mean just one horizontal break in the front, with the trousers running slightly longer at the back, but never covering the heel of the shoe.
Jacket Collar
Always remember your jacket collar should come over your dress shirt collar. And if your shoulders are perfectly fitted, the jacket collar should rest snugly on the back of your neck. A loose collar will pull away from your neck and a tight one will cause the fabric to bunch up just below it. Watch out for an ill-fitted collar when trying on a suit jacket, as this cannot be fixed by the tailor.