The Salmah Plateau is located in the Eastern Hajar Mountains around 160 kilometres from Muscat. It is a 30 square kilometre elevated shoulder of Eocene Limestone that, at first glance, seems mostly devoid of vegetation, giving it and the surrounding mountains a desolate feel. However, the mountains, together with the coastal area beneath, are ripe with opportunities for both land and sea activities including caving, trekking, mountain biking, swimming, windsurfing, fishing, camping, wadi exploring, and more.
Travelling down the coastal highway towards Sur, you will notice several roads around Tiwi that zigzag up the mountainside and into the clouds, many of which make for great 4WD excursions. Two of these tracks give you access to the Salmah Plateau.
The plateau is a semi-arid, undulating mountain top, that is home to spectacular karst features including the Salma Plateau Cave System, which at 11.5 kilometres long and 380 metres deep is the longest in Oman. In addition to the cave system, the plateau is also home to the world famous Majlis Al Jinn, one of the largest cave chambers in the world.
Majlis Al Jinn
Majlis Al Jinn is located in a relatively remote area of the Salmah plateau at an elevation of around 1,300 m above sea level. At approx 340 meters long, 250 meters wide, 180 metres deep and with a volume in excess of four million cubic meters, the cave chamber is simply enormous.
The cave is located some 40m beneath the surface of the plateau and can only be accessed by abseiling down one of three vertical shafts, known locally as Khoshilat Maqandeli, Khoshilat Minqod, and Khoshilat Beyn Al Hiyool. At 158.2 meters, the Khoshilat Minqod drop is the is the deepest free rappel into any known cave in Oman or the Arabian Peninsula. These entrances also provide the cave with ambient light for most of the day.
The entrances to the cave chamber was first discovered in June 1983 by Americans W. Don Davison, Jr. and his wife, Cheryl S. Jones when carrying out a Karst Research Program. Exploration of the cave began later that same month when Don rappelled down the 118m Khoshilat Maqandeli entrance.
Don and Cheryl eventually surveyed and photographed the cave in April and May, 1985. At the time, the Omanis living on the plateau didn’t have a name for the cave but believed that Jinn lived in the cave. Reflecting this belief, Cheryl gave the cave the name it is known by internationally today – Majlis Al Jinn, which translates to “the gathering place of the Jinn.”
The Cave has since grown in popularity both locally and internationally; especially since the construction of an unsealed road from the coast in 2003. Initially, the cave played host to several adventure caving activities from individuals and companies alike. However, in 2008, these activities ceased after access and activity restrictions were placed on the cave by the Ministry of Tourism in order to conserve the site. As a result, special permission is required by the ministry for any visits to the interior of the cave.
Prehistoric Tower Tombs of Jaylah
Besides its cave systems, the plateau also has significant cultural heritage features, such as the numerous tower tombs, including those at Jaylah on the western edge. To reach them, you need to continue on your track past the entrances to Majlis al Jinn, and reach the village of Qurun, which is nestled next to a wadi. Besides the one you used, the village has two other exits, the one to the south leads you to the second path up the plateau while the exit from the back leads to the Tower Tombs of Jaylah and the third access point to the plateau, that connects it to Ibra.
These Tower Tombs date all the way back to the bronze age. They were initially discovered in the early 90’s by archaeologist Paul Alan Yule from aerial photographs published in the book ‘A Day Above Oman’, by John Nowell. He, together with Gerd Weisgerber and help from the German Omani Association, went on to eventually document, and map the site, as well as excavate and completely restore at least one of the tombs in 1995.
The site itself comprises over 90 tombs spread out over a large area. There are several different types of tombs with some as high as eight metres in height and seven metres in diameter. While most are inaccessible by car, many are right next to the trail making them easy to visit. Given that most of these are well over 3,000 years old they are certainly a sight to behold.
Aside from caving and cultural site visits, the plateau also offers unmatched views of the shore and the turquoise waters beyond. Camping overnight near the cliff side will treat you to a breathtakingly beautiful sunrise. The view alone is worth the trip up the plateau.